It’s a land of high desert and smells pungently of sage, but don’t be fooled. There’s more to southeast Oregon than cattle and cowboys. This land is vast and open and liberating. Look up to that immense sky, blue in the day and black at night sky with more stars than you’ll have time to count. In the middle of all this high desert is an oasis of sorts. The lakes and marshlands of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge south of Burns provide some of the most incredible birdwatching in the Northwest during spring and fall migrations.